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Better Drinking

Thursday, June 16, 2005 at 3:43 PM

Beer review - Fuller's London Porter

Fuller's is probably more well-known for their ESB or Pale Ale, but the beer in consideration here is, in this reviewer's opinion, one of the finest examples of a modern porter. That is, if you can find it. I've had this served in bottles at two different locales in northeastern metro Atlanta, but the distribution channel seems to be shifting things around so it may be harder to find than previously.

This particular bottle was a "bomber", bought while in Arizona back in February. A very nice, unique bottle with the words "Independent Family Brewers" molded into the glass. A regal label, complete with a griffin at the top, describing the contents of the bottle and where is was made. While "cash redemption" for the bottle is available in several states, a homebrewer like myself doesn't throw away bottles unless they are twist-off. No, the only real desecration to the outward appearance was that darn government label insisting that pregnant truck drivers risk birth defects while driving with the surgeon general. I am firm believer in truth-in-advertising, but some things I just don't want to know.

A dark brown ale with ruby tinges in the light, this beer adorns the glass with grace and invitation. A tan head formed nicely and though it did not last long, a nice lace was produced throughout the session.

A sweet, almost syrupy, aroma arises, mixed with thick malt and chocolate overtones. Not too roasty, like a stout would be, but a good prelude to what's coming in the taste. A very slight bitterness wafts in as it warms.

Mouthfeel is smooth and velvety, carbonated with just the right mix. Not too heavy, but definitely not light.

Without exaggerating too much, imagine a beer with chocolate syrup. Yes, it's really that good. Not in the same category as Rogue's Chocolate Stout, but a creamy, delectable beer, worthy of dessert or dinner. To balance the powerful chocolate flavors, there is roasted barley, as well as some mild hops, which add a pleasant bitterness mid-mouth, in the swallow and the aftertaste. As it warms, the bitterness becomes somewhat more pronounced, as one might expect, but the overall flavor does not change, making this an absolute treat from first sip to staring at the bottom of an empty glass, somewhat wistfully.

Overall, an exquisite beer, one of my favorites in it's class, even above the excellent Anchor Porter and Rogue Mocha Porter, both of which are more American-style in terms of flavor and aroma. If you can find it, order and enjoy.

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