The gueuze style is more or less an unblended, unsweetened lambic, very carbonated, crisp, dry, and of course, sour. But "sour" is not entirely correct, anymore than saying that Pale Ales or Bitters are simply "bitter". It is a way to distinguish them from other beer styles perhaps, but a single adjective hardly encompasses the totality of the drinking experience. Unless of course that word is simply "good".
The Oude Geuze Mariage Parfait is exactly what it purports to be…a dry, crisp, old-style beer, that probably has more in common with champagne and perhaps some dry wines, at least to those who didn't know beer could be so complex.
This one pours a brilliant golden, with an immaculate white head, the glass obviously bursting with a heavy carbonation.
The smell is of that familiar funkiness that can be only be described as grassy, earthy, funky, and slightly acidic, with a clean malt base. No hops could be discerned.
Mouthfeel is puckering, crisp and dry, very carbonated, and very full, considering the effervescence.
Taste initially hits the saliva glands with an acidic sourness and a citrus-like fruitiness that is also sweet. But not too sweet, and neither is the sour character overly developed, at least not so much to think you're drinking liquid sweet-tarts. It's far too complex for that. Rather, all of the funky aromas and the citrus fruitiness, along with a sour-ish malt result in a very complicated, yet easily drinkable, beer. I let this one sit out for at least 30 minutes before consumption, and by the bottom of the glass, the warmth made it more drinkable than when I started. Shame it was only 12oz.
The sweetness is not too sweet, balanced by the sourness, yet neither significantly dominated. For comparison, imagine a really good IPA, where the malt balances out the hops, and they work together. A really hoppy beer without a good malt base is usually too much, and even really malty beers need some hop to keep them from being too sweet. So it is with the Oude Geuze…not too sweet, not too sour.
If you're interested in trying something really different, pick up a bottle. I will warn you that a 12oz bottle is $7, so perhaps your adventurousness only goes so far. This is not an everyday beer, but certainly a worthy one for special occasions.
Labels: beer reviews