Better Drinking

I left work early today and headed over to Taco Mac Suwanee to get some Duck-Rabbit Barleywine, 3 vintages available on draft for one-time event. Not only did I contribute to my slowly growing passport club list, but I got a chance to speak with Fred from Tappan Street, and Paul the headbrewer at Duck-Rabbit. Thank you gentlemen for your work.

Barleywine is originally an English style, a "big" beer with lots of malt and hops, not a traditional session beer, but an evening digestif or perhaps a dessert replacement and/or good complement for a fine cigar. The American versions tend to be "souped up", especially when it comes to hops, and often alcohol levels. While I enjoy well-hopped beers, I am not a "hop-head" so more often than not, the American barleywines appeal less to me than the English versions. It is also tends to be a cooler weather beer, so winter seems appropriate for this quick review.

Taco Mac Suwanee was packed, a good sign given the general state of the economy, and the fact that they use my employers POS equipment, though I do not frequent this store, so have no idea what normal Wednesday evenings are like. Many were ordering the barleywine and I saw many full (and empty) glasses, the sample size being 6oz.

The following reviews are for vintage years 2007, 2008, and 2009. I drank them in reverse age order (youngest first), which one of the bartenders appreciated since apparently many of the other customers were drinking them in chronological order.

Regarding all three - appearance was a clear, reddish amber, minimal carbonation in the body, though the head was more or less typical for a draught beer. Mouthfeel stayed relatively consistent throughout, medium to full without an over abundance of carbonation. Many beers rely on significant amounts of carbonation to lift flavors and aromas onto the palate and into the nose, which is normal. But barleywines, and other big beers, should not be so carbonated and when they are, they become nearly undrinkable since the beer itself is already filling...one does not need CO2 to "fill the corners".

Nose and taste are what distinguished these vintages:

2009 - the nose is profoundly hoppy, though muted to some degree by a sweet malt. Taste is a rich maltiness, combined with a heavy dose of up-front hops, a good mix neither of which dominates.

2008 - the nose is significantly less hoppy and even the malt was somewhat muted. The taste was similar to the 2009, except that the hops had moved to the back of the palate rather than the front. In other words, in the 2009 the hops were front and center along with big malt, while in the 2008 the malt was no less pronounced though the hops were a bit more evenly spread from mouth to swallow.

2007 - the nose was slightly more hoppy than the 2008, but less than the 2009, though the malt was much clearer than any of the others. This one was the warmest (all 3 poured at the same time, this one being consumed last) so perhaps that effected it. Needless to say, the malt had a more mature flavor, the aging process definitely mellowing out the harder edges. The malt sweetness was slightly more pronounced and the hops were present but very subdued. Minus the lactic character, this one reminded me more of an old ale.

Overall, a good experience. I enjoyed all three, each on it's own merits, especially given the 6oz sample sizes. While I am not a raving fan of barleywine in general, Duck-Rabbit has crafted yet another fine beer. Kudos to brewer and host.